Pasta Salad with Butternut Squash, Kale and White Beans Tom McCorkle/photo; Gina Nistico/food styling, for The Washington Post

Peek into my refrigerator during the summer and you will most likely find a big container of pasta salad. My husband, daughter and I rely on it as we come and go on busy days. We often pass one another, but when our schedules do align, the hearty and colorful salad is at-the-ready for a spontaneous family meal.

More of a riff than a recipe, my pasta salad has always contained some combination of cooked, cooled pasta (usually fusilli, but any short pasta shape will do), fresh summer tomatoes, whatever other seasonal vegetables I have on hand, a can of white beans or chickpeas, and bites of mozzarella and/or parmesan cheese tossed in a garlic-herb olive oil dressing. Because fresh tomatoes have been so central to my notion of the dish, I would automatically stop making it when tomato season would end.

Then it dawned on me: Why not make a fall version?

Now I wish I had thought of it sooner, because this fall pasta salad is a new family favorite. It follows the same lines as my summer batch, with pasta, vegetables, beans and cheese in an olive oil vinaigrette, but it centers on autumnal produce, with cubes of roasted butternut squash and shredded kale, which is massaged with the dressing to make it delightfully tender. You could use any type of winter squash you like – delicata would be nice – and any dark, leafy green. (Skip the massage step for tender greens such as arugula or baby spinach.) Flecks of red onion add color and crispness; toasted pine nuts provide a buttery crunch; and shaved pecorino cheese brings bold, savory flavor. (You could use another hard cheese, such as parmesan, in a pinch.) I used sage for the herb, because its warm astringency pairs beautifully with the sweet squash, but dried or fresh oregano would be nice, too.

It’s funny how we can get stuck thinking of foods in specific, limited ways. I am glad I broke out of my “summer pasta salad” pigeonhole, because this fall pasta salad is exactly what my family needs in the refrigerator this season.

Massaging the kale will tenderize the leaves. Tom McCorkle/photo; Gina Nistico/food styling, for The Washington Post

Pasta Salad with Butternut Squash, Kale and White Beans

This pasta salad brims with fall flavors and colors from roasted butternut squash, ribbons of kale and flecks of crisp red onion. Toasted pine nuts add a buttery crunch, and shaved pecorino Romano cheese brings a savory punch to every bite. Seasoned with sage and garlic, and made protein-rich with white beans, this recipe makes a great side dish or main course.

4 to 6 servings (makes about 8 cups)

Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 50 mins

Make ahead: The pasta can be cooked and squash can be roasted and refrigerated (together, if you prefer) for up to 4 days in advance.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

INGREDIENTS

3/4 teaspoon fine salt, divided, plus more as needed

8 ounces dried fusilli or other short pasta shape

4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided

4 cups diced butternut squash (about 1 pound)

1/4 cup raw pine nuts

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon crumbled dried sage

1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic or garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 cups (about 1 1/2 ounces) thinly sliced stemmed Tuscan (lacinato) kale leaves

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added white beans, such as cannellini, drained and rinsed

1/3 cup finely diced red onion

1/2 cup (1 1/2 ounces) shaved pecorino Romano cheese

STEPS

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add enough salt so the water tastes pleasantly salty. While the water comes to a boil, position racks in the middle and lower third of the oven, and preheat to 400 degrees.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions, until al dente. Drain the pasta, transfer to a large bowl and toss with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Let cool completely, or cover and refrigerate until needed.

Meanwhile, on a large sheet pan, toss the squash with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the squash is tender and browned in spots, stirring once or twice. Let cool completely before using, or transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate until needed.

About 5 minutes before the squash is ready, arrange the pine nuts in a small ovenproof skillet or sheet pan, transfer to the oven and toast for 3 to 7 minutes, or until fragrant and golden brown, shaking the pan a few times. Transfer to a small plate and let cool completely.

When ready to serve, in a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil, the vinegar, sage, garlic powder, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the pepper until combined.

Add the kale to the dressing and massage the leaves until tender, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add the cooled pasta and squash, the pine nuts, beans, onion and pecorino Romano, and gently toss to combine. Divide among individual bowls and serve.

Substitutions: Pecorino Romano >> other similar hard cheese, such as parmesan or grana padano. Vegan? >> Use vegan parmesan cheese. Dried sage >> 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or use dried herbs such as thyme or rosemary. Gluten-free? >> Use gluten-free pasta. Butternut squash >> your favorite winter squash. Cannellini beans >> other white beans, such as navy or Great Northern, or chickpeas. Canned beans >> 1 1/2 cups home-cooked beans. Pine nuts >> your favorite nut. Red onion >> shallot, or white or yellow onion. Tuscan kale >> other kale. Red wine vinegar >> white wine vinegar.

Nutrition | Per serving (1 1/3 cups), based on 6: 396 calories, 50g carbohydrates, 0mg cholesterol, 17g fat, 7g fiber, 12g protein, 3g saturated fat, 450mg sodium, 4g sugar