ABIQUIU, New Mexico — Ghost Ranch encompasses 21,000 acres of astonishing natural beauty, from mesas dotted with pinyon pine and juniper to bold cliffs of tan, yellow, orange and lavender. In 1934, this magical place with the mysterious name attracted artist Georgia O’Keeffe. Awed and inspired by the magnificent landscape, she famously lived and painted here for the next 50 years.
Ghost Ranch is a favorite wayside not only for visitors seeking retreat and relaxation but for hikers on the Continental Divide Trail, who tuck in for a spell to rest, shower, do laundry and fill up on good food. The ranch is 690 trail miles north of the CDT’s southern terminus at the Crazy Cook Monument on the Mexican border, so for northbounders like me, it’s a great pit stop before entering the snowy San Juan Mountains.
Since Silver City, I’ve followed the CDT through a bounty of public lands. This has included the Gila, Apache, Cibola and Santa Fe national forests, and the Gila, Cebolla, San Pedro Peaks and Chama River Canyon wilderness areas. I’ve also crossed miles of Bureau of Land Management lands as well as the El Malpais National Conservation Area. Tallying official redline and selected alternate routes, my actual mileage totals around 625 miles to date.
A visit to Pietown is all about good times, good food, and – of course –lots of pie! Carey Kish photo
Pietown (pop. 186) at mile marker 415 is the psychological halfway point of the hike through the Land of Enchantment. It’s barely a blip on U.S. Route 60, but you’ll find plenty of people from near and far packed into the Gatherin’ Place and Pie-O-Neer restaurants for delicious chow and, what else, pie. Of every delicious flavor, hot and fresh, one to enjoy with your meal and another (or more, if you’re a hiker) to go.
For about 25 miles on either side of Pietown, the CDT runs through private ranch lands where hikers must stick to roads. Fortunately, south of town, the Davila Ranch provides shelters, restrooms, showers, laundry, cooking facilities and a stocked fridge and pantry. To the north, the TLC Ranch offers camping, water, toilets and space to gather out of the weather. My hat is off to these incredible folks for helping to make this stretch more comfortable.
The community of trail angels working their magic along the CDT has been amazing. At a 9,000-foot mountain pass at mile 345, “Grace” was there with a table full of goodies and comfy chairs. Amid the badlands at mile 597, the local CDT Trail Angels hiking group was set up for three weeks of feeding hungry hikers from an impressive menu. “We see trail magic as a competitive sport,” said organizer “Woody.”
Little Hudson Aulbach offered Carey this hot dog on a stick in the Cibolla National Forest. His brother Travis looks on. Carey Kish photo
Perhaps the most special example of trail magic occurred at San Gregorio Reservoir at mile 645, where I met the Aulbach family. Little Hudson was waiting patiently near the shoreline for a thru-hiker to pass by, with a hot dog on a stick. He excitedly led me back to their campsite and watched me roast and eat the delicious dog. I walked away with my heart full.
A day shy of Ghost Ranch, I descended Mesa Alta and wandered through the aromatic sagebrush to the swift and silty Rio Chama. Down river at a forest service campground I met kayakers Dennis, Carol, John and Nina taking out; they gave me a gallon of fresh water and two cold beers. Minutes after they drove away, a van pulled up and a man jumped out and said, “hey, would you like a dinner of steak, potatoes and beer?” Well, duh! Thanks, “Lorax.”
Carey’s wife, Fran, is hopscotching along the Continental Divide Trail with their camper and meeting up every week or so. Carey Kish photo
Daily on the CDT I walk in awe of my beautiful surroundings and revel in the simplicity of putting one foot in front of the other. Every mile, every mountain is challenging, but I’m feeling strong, my legs are solid and my wind is good. I’m averaging about 18 miles per day but I can hike 25 miles, if need be, to a water source, trail magic or town. And always do I thank my wife, Fran, for her support of this endeavor, with truck and camper following along.
I’m just 90 miles from the Colorado state line, but there’s plenty of snow and several sketchy river crossings to contend with in the 10,000-foot-plus terrain of the Carson National Forest, so the going will not be easy. But on this marathon CDT journey, few things are. It will be good to check the box on the first of five states.
Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is thru-hiking the 2,800-mile Continental Divide Trail along the spine of the Rocky Mountains from Mexico to Canada. Follow more of his journey on Facebook and Instagram.
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