Seafood has long been left out of the farm-to-table movement. Routinely, the product gets trucked in, changing hands several times before ending up on restaurant plates.
Maine Seafood Promotional Council (MSPC) is working to change that. Last week, they hosted On the (Seafood) Menu in Maine, an event that brought in top chefs nationwide to celebrate the state’s fresh offerings.
Now, small businesses — including suppliers and community-supported fisheries — and nonprofit groups like the Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association can make a splash in a larger pool. And for chefs and home cooks, it means finding local wild seafood is getting a lot easier.
Making a market for monkfish
The event on Oct. 23 was comprised of many culinary masters: Nicole Cabrera of Peche and Ana Castro of ACAMAYA in New Orleans; Alex Kemp of My Loup and Amanda Shulman of Her Place Supper Club in Philadelphia; Katarina Petonito of Eastern Point Collective in D.C.; and Will Riezel of Giusto in Newport, Rhode Island.
It kicked off at Mr. Tuna’s commercial kitchen in South Portland, where Chef Jordan Rubin (aka Mr. Tuna) demonstrated the art of cutting and preparing a fresh catch from the Gulf of Maine. Guests then moved next door to SoPo Seafood Market for various dishes designed to inspire creativity in seafood sourcing.
Among the featured dishes were monkfish stew from the Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association, oysters from Mere Point Oyster Company, mussels from Bangs Island Mussels, unagi from American Unagi, scallops from Downeast Dayboat, seaweed from Atlantic Sea Farms and lobster bánh mì rolls prepared by Fishermen’s Net.
Afterward, the group embarked on tours, including visits to Atlantic Sea Farms and Bangs Island Mussels.
According to Leo Waterston, program director at Focus Maine, the event was intended to foster conversation among chefs from various regions and provide opportunities for local seafood producers to expand into out-of-state markets.
“Bringing together such a talented group of chefs is a testament to the quality and diversity of our local products,” Waterston said. “Events like this not only celebrate Maine’s culinary heritage but also strengthen the connections between producers and chefs, ultimately benefiting our entire seafood industry.”
The initiative supports MSCP’s mission to enhance market development and expansion for Maine seafood products. It also aligns with MCFA, which recently collaborated with Hurricane’s Premium Soup & Chowder to create Maine Coast Monkfish Stew — a product designed to introduce consumers to an underutilized fish.
“SoPo Seafood Market already sells and serves our stew,” said Ben Martens, MCFA executive director. “So it [the event] was a convenient way to show off a product demonstrating monkfish’s value.”
‘It takes a village’
Martens noted that as much as the event was about networking, it was equally about education.
Take, for instance, Downeast Dayboat sea scallops. They aren’t just sustainable, they help to enrich habitat.
Large-scale aquaculture can lead to ecological destruction, polluting the ocean and placing pressure on fragile fisheries. However, small-scale and sustainable practices do not have this impact. Shellfish such as scallops, mussels and oysters enhance habitats by filtering water and boosting biodiversity.
“Building markets for local seafood isn’t easy,” Martens said. “It takes a village. We are making small gains, but we’re moving slowly to ensure we’re building a durable market as, ultimately, that’s the goal.”
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