Interior of Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick. Photo by Aimsel Ponti

I will never tire of egg-and-cheese sandwiches and am open to them in a variety of formats. Hit me with an English muffin, croissant or bagel, and I’m golden.

But my egg-and-cheese-sandwich world was turned upside-down two Fridays ago, when I ordered one with pork roll on a salt-and-pepper bagel at Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick.

The only time I’ve ever had pork roll was at a diner in New Jersey in the early ’90s. It’s a specialty in the Garden State, and it’s more than welcome in the Pine Tree one, as far as I’m concerned. Pork roll is in the ham family. Think of it as the Jersey version of Canadian bacon.

I have to quote “Fried Green Tomatoes” when I say “the secret’s in the sauce.” In this case, it’s something called bodega sauce, made with mayo, ketchup and hot sauce. How I’ve gone so long without knowing about this divine condiment is unconscionable.

When I arrived at Fort Andross, I made my way through a maze of hallways. It was like being at Walt Disney World, when you think there’s no line at Space Mountain, until you actually get there. Suddenly, there were about 10 people in front of me, and the takeout order bags were lined up like soldiers. I took this as a good sign, because who lines up like that for a mediocre bagel?

When it was my turn to order, I decided to have my sandwich on a salt-and-pepper bagel, which was the special flavor of the day.

Bagel sandwich with eggs, cheese and pork roll from Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick. Photo by Aimsel Ponti

An egg-and-cheese comes with two fried eggs and American cheese for $9. I immediately added pork roll (bacon was the other meat option) for $3.

Then, I waited while the staff hustled around making fancy coffee drinks, slinging bagels and baked goods and kept the line moving. This was a well-run, well-staffed operation.

A few minutes later, it was chow time, so I grabbed a spot by a huge window in the palatial space that’s occupied by Nomad pizza in the evenings. Dutchman’s opened in 2022 as a pop-up and, thankfully, is there to stay.

My sandwich posed for its requisite photos, and then I took my first bite.

Two things hit me simultaneously: the crunchy exterior of the bagel and the flavor of the bodega sauce. Both were master classes in perfection. The bagel was impeccably chewy on the inside, and by the time I finished eating this sandwich, I knew that no trip anywhere near the Midcoast would be complete without a stop at Dutchman’s.

Egg and cheese sandwich with pork roll, $12, Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels, 14 Maine St. (Fort Andross), Brunswick. dutchmans.me